Gemstone Appraisals Center

Sapphires and Diamond Art Deco Bracelet Question: I bought an 18kt white gold bracelet.

It's set with diamonds and sapphires.

It looks like an art deco style where the sapphires are small.

Gem Identification Made Easy, Third Edition: A Hands-On Guide to More Confident Buying & Selling

Price: $23.27 USD

The majority of the diamonds are bezel set but there are a few slightly larger diamonds prong set. (I had it appraised and the appraiser called it bead set on the paperwork.)

Anyway, I noticed that the prongs that are holding the diamonds are yellow-y looking. Not noticeable unless you really look close.

This is a new piece that was placed on clearance but I really believe someone had it and used it for a while then returned it.

The clasp had some scratches on it.

Since it was marked on clearance, it's a final sale so I can't bring it back but I would like to take it to their jeweler and see if they can touch the gold up to make it look white.

My main concern is, if they can rhodium plate it, would it damage the sapphires in the setting?

I don't know how that process works so I am afraid to bring it in.

I don't even know if this piece was originally rhodium plated.

I bought another diamond bracelet from them which is very high shiny white (18kt gold) which I believe is rhodium plated, but this other bracelet I bought looks more on the gray side, more like a platinum color but the tag and the item is stamped 18 kt gold.

I already had a bad experience with another jeweler (different place) ruining a ring I had so I am a bit nervous with this one.

If there is any chance of it being damaged, I won't ask them to do any work on it.

The place I bought it from is reliable so if they damage it they will fix it. If they can't they will give me my money back but they can't re-order another one.

thanks so much!

You can see my answer below....

Answer: G'day Kelly and many thanks for your query

It sounds as though you are getting quite a good collection going - well done!

Bead set or grain set are both the same thing really while prong set is the same as claw set - it just depends where you come from?

The process of rhodium plating is like dipping your bracelet in a special solution and using a 'Magnet' (NOT really a magnet - but you get the picture) to attract the rhodium onto the metal parts of your bracelet.

Naturally (because of this 'Magnet') it can't attract the plating to NON_METALS - so the Sapphires and Diamonds ignore it, while the gold attracts it.

Sapphires and Diamonds are two of the HARDEST materials known to man so they won't be harmed in the process. If it were Emerald or Opal - than that would be a different matter because they CAN be damaged - But your jewelry should be ok.

You are right when you say your other jewelry has a 'Shiney' finish because of the plating. Older (original) Art deco items may not have had this plating and had a more dull grey platinum finish. This can still be highly polished but would never have the same 'Shiney' appearance.

I would say if you believe your current jeweler to be trustworthy - give them the benefit of that trust and let them get on with the job. They should know what they are doing and would advise you accordingly because they can SEE IT- FEEL IT - and touch it during examination so will be able to give you a much better answer than I can.

You might like to add this question to my blog at http://how2valuejewelry.com/ as others would be very interested in the results, and some may already have had a similar experience. Can't harm anyway...

Hope this helps